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When you look at a product’s ingredient list (the INCI), you’ll see different forms (derivatives) of Vitamin C;see the table below for a quick overview.
Brands choose different types/derivatives depending on the kind of product they want to create and the type of claims they want to make - but in essence the purpose of Vitamin C in your skincare comes down to these 3 functions:
In case you missed it and want to learn more about Antioxidants in Skincareand the Role and Importance of Vitamin C in your skincare routine we have a few extensive blogs covering these topics.
In this blog we unpack the 5 main types of Vitamin C as a cosmetic skincare ingredient and I hope this will help you to feel more confident choosing the right product for you.
NOTE: As with pretty much everything to do with skincare it really depends on your personal situation, what you feel your skin needs and the kind of product you prefer - as well as your preferences in how many products you like to use, budget and time you want to spend on your routine.
It may take some trial and error to find the right product for you, but unless your skin can't tolerate any kind of Vitamin C in your routine I believe it's worth going through the process.
It is entirely possible that one person's skin can't tolerate Ascorbic Acid while being totally fine with any other type of Vitamin C, or vice versa.
It is also possible that your skin just doesn't tolerate Vitamin C at all, or that you just prefer not to use it all - in that case there are several other antioxidant ingredients that you could explore. I've added a list of alternatives to Vitamin C at the bottom of this guide.
To start off with, there are both water-soluble and oil-soluble versions of Vitamin C; which means you will get water-based, oil-based, and emulsion-type products.
You will also see products that focus on one type of Vitamin C, and others that combine different types into one product to claim enhanced efficacy.
In many cases, Vitamin C will be the star of the product, while in others it might play more of a supportive role to a different key ingredient.
It’s important to know the difference between different types of Vitamin C, as it directly relates to a product’s stability, potency, and suitability for your skin.
Not all forms penetrate equally, and for midlife women with potentially drier or more sensitive barriers, stable derivatives are often superior.
Here's a quick comparison table to help you choose:
| Form | Stability | Potency | Best For | Optimal Concentration | Potential Drawbacks |
| L-Ascorbic Acid (L-AA) | Low (oxidises quickly) | High | Oily/acne-prone skin | 10-20% | Irritating at low pH; stings sensitive skin |
| Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP/THD) | High | Medium-High (deep penetration) | All types, especially dry/sensitive midlife skin | 3-5% | More expensive |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) | High | Medium | Combination/sensitive with acne | 5-10% | Less potent than L-AA |
| Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) | High | Medium | Dry/dehydrated mature skin | 5-10% | Slower conversion to active form |
| Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-G) | High | Medium | Gentle everyday use | 2-5% | May require longer to see results |
This is the biologically active form of Vitamin C, often listed as “Ascorbic Acid” on labels. It’s the most researched, with studies showing it directly boosts collagen synthesis by acting as a cofactor to stabilise collagen fibres. For women over 35, this is key because it can increase collagen production by up to 8-fold in lab tests, helping counteract the 1-2% annual loss that leads to fine lines and loss of firmness.
Functions and Benefits:
Antioxidant Protection: Neutralises free radicals 100 times more effectively than many other antioxidants, reducing oxidative stress that accelerates ageing.
Collagen Boost: Enhances type I and III collagen, improving skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles.
Brightening: Inhibits tyrosinase enzyme by 50-80%, fading age spots and melasma.
However, stability is an issue; it oxidises rapidly in air/light, turning products yellow/brown and potentially pro-oxidant (causing irritation). It requires a low pH (2.5-3.5) for absorption, which can sting sensitive or mature skin. Optimal concentration: 10-20%. Best for oily/acne-prone skin types; patch-test if you’re new to it.
These are essentially the same lipid-soluble derivative (oil-soluble).
It’s esterified with fatty acids for superior stability and penetration into the skin’s lipid layers - up to 8 times better than water-based forms.
For midlife women, its gentle nature suits thinning, drier skin barriers.
Functions and Benefits:
Deep Penetration and Collagen Stimulation: Converts to L-AA in the dermis, promoting collagen synthesis and elastin repair; research indicates it increases collagen by 20-30% in aged skin models.
Antioxidant Defence: Provides long-lasting protection (up to 40 hours) against UV-induced damage, reducing photoageing signs like sunspots.
Brightening and Even Tone: Effectively reduces hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin transfer.
Highly stable (doesn’t oxidise easily), non-irritating even at neutral pH, and effective at lower concentrations (3-5%), making it cost-efficient and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive or rosacea-prone.
This is why it’s in our Beauty by Ané serum (currently in development) at a perfectly effective 3% concentration.
A stable, water-soluble derivative that converts to L-AA upon skin absorption. It’s less potent than L-AA but far more stable, with a neutral pH that suits mature, sensitive skin.
For women 35+, it’s excellent for acne-scar fading or inflammation from hormonal breakouts.
Functions and Benefits:
Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory: Scavenges free radicals and reduces acne bacteria (P. acnes) by 50%, while calming redness—helpful for perimenopausal flare-ups.
Collagen Support: Boosts collagen production in fibroblasts; studies found it enhanced wound healing and skin firmness in older adults.
Brightening: Inhibits melanin synthesis, improving dullness and uneven tone without irritation.
Optimal at 5-10%; great for beginners or combination skin, as it’s lightweight and non-greasy.
Another water-soluble form, similar to SAP but with magnesium for added soothing. It’s highly stable and converts slowly to L-AA, minimising irritation.
Ideal for midlife dry or dehydrated skin, as it hydrates while working.
Functions and Benefits:
Collagen Acceleration: Proven in wound-healing studies to speed collagen assembly, increasing skin thickness—vital for countering midlife thinning (epidermal loss of 6-7% per decade).
Antioxidant Protection: Shields against environmental aggressors, with research showing it reduces UV-induced DNA damage by 30%.
Brightening Power: Effectively lightens pigmentation; clinical data indicates better tolerance than L-AA for long-term use in ageing skin.
Effective at 5-10%; pairs well with hydrators like hyaluronic acid for mature routines.
You might also encounter Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-G), a stable, water-soluble form that is metabolised in the skin to release L-Ascorbic Acid.
This controlled conversion means it’s exceptionally stable in formulation and highly gentle on the skin. It’s a brilliant option for continuous, everyday maintenance.
Functions and Benefits:
Stable Delivery: Provides a sustained release of L-AA over time, making it highly effective for long-term use with minimal risk of irritation or oxidation.
Brightening and Radiance: Studies highlight its antioxidant and melanin-inhibiting effects, making it a reliable workhorse for improving age-related dullness.
Collagen Support: Converts efficiently to L-AA, helping to boost collagen production within the fibroblasts for gentle firming over time.
Effective at 2-5% concentration, AA-G is a fantastic, fuss-free choice for beginners or those who prioritise a simple, gentle routine.
This is a key misconception we want to clear up.
Many people assume a 20% or even 30% Vitamin C serum must be more effective, but this is often not the case.
For an ingredient to work, it needs to be stable and able to penetrate your skin.
A high percentage of an unstable form like L-Ascorbic Acid can simply mean that more of it oxidises before it has a chance to do any good.
This can lead to irritation, redness, and a product that turns brown and useless long before you finish the bottle.
I've decided on 3% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate as a highly bioavailable and stable form of Vitamin C.
Its oil-soluble nature allows it to be efficiently absorbed and utilised by the skin, delivering maximum benefits with minimal irritation.
This means you get all the fantastic benefits of Vitamin C as a key part of your collagen banking routine, without the potential drawbacks of a high-percentage, unstable formula.
Here’s a handy checklist to guide you when shopping for a Vitamin C serum—print it out or save it to your phone for easy reference:
□ Check the Form: Opt for stable derivatives like ATIP/THD, SAP, or MAP if you have sensitive skin; pure L-AA if your skin tolerates it and you want max potency.
□ Verify Concentration: Aim for 10-20% for L-AA; 3-10% for derivatives; higher isn’t better if it’s unstable.
□ Assess Stability: Look for opaque, airless packaging to prevent oxidation; avoid products that are already yellow/brown.
□ Ingredient Synergies: Pair with stabilisers like vitamin E or Ferulic acid for enhanced efficacy.
□ Skin Type Match: Gentle forms for dry/sensitive midlife skin; potent ones for oily/resilient.
□ Budget and Value: Prioritise quality over hype; higher % doesn't neccessarily equals better; and efficacy at a lower % can mean longer-lasting benefits.
□ Patch Test: Always patch test and introduce slowly.
To help you get started, here are science-backed recommendations for each Vitamin C type, categorised by price tier (budget: under £30; mid-range: £30-£70; premium: over £70).
Prices are shown in GBP; approximate and may vary; always check current listings and patch-test.
Budget: TruSkin Vitamin C Serum (£20-25) – A gentle entry-level option with 20% L-AA, vitamin E, and hyaluronic acid.
Mid-Range: Timeless 20% Vitamin C + E Ferulic Acid Serum (£25-30) – Combines 20% L-AA with ferulic acid for enhanced stability.
Premium: SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic (£150+) – The gold standard with 15% L-AA, vitamin E, and ferulic acid.
Budget: The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F (£15-20) – Oil-based with 20% THD for deep penetration and brightening.
Mid-Range: Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum (£40-50) – Features THD with guava extract for even tone. Gentle for sensitive skin.
Premium: Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum (£80-90) – Creamy formula with 15% THD for hydration and radiance.
Budget: Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum (£25-30) – With SAP, ferulic acid, and hyaluronic acid for calming and brightening.
Mid-Range: Ole Henriksen Truth Serum (£45-55) – Combines SAP with collagen for anti-ageing. Good for acne-prone midlife skin.
Premium: U Beauty Resurfacing Compound (£200+) – Multi-active with SAP, retinol, and acids for comprehensive renewal.
Budget: Hada Labo UV White Gel Moisturiser SPF 50+ (£10-20) – Contains MAP with hyaluronic acid for hydration and brightening.
Mid-Range: Babyface 15% MAP Vitamin C Serum (£30-40) – Stable 15% MAP with oils for dry skin.
Premium: Circadia Vitamin C Reversal Serum (£70-80) – High-potency MAP for firmness and pigmentation.
Budget: The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% (£10-15) – Water-based 12% AA-G for gentle brightening.
Mid-Range: Cocokind Vitamin C Serum with Sea Grape Caviar (£20-25) – Organic with AA-G and algae for radiance.
Premium: Ursa Major Brighten Up Vitamin C Serum (£50-60) – Vegan with AA-G and rose hips for antioxidant defence.
You’ve chosen your perfect Vitamin C - now, how do you use it effectively?
In Part 3 of our 'Vitamin C For Midlife Skin Decoded' guide I’ve compiled the 16 most common questions about Vitamin C in skincare, from layering with Retinol and Niacinamide to choosing the right percentage.
This Q&A is your cheat sheet for making Vitamin C work hardest for your midlife skin.
If you’re 35+ and noticing changes in firmness, brightness and resilience, this Part 1 guide explains why Vitamin C belongs in your morning routine with SPF.
Vitamin C is biologically indispensable: it is an essential co-factor for collagen synthesis and a master water-soluble antioxidant that neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution while regenerating Vitamin E (Tocopherol).
You’ll find a clear overview of the main forms used in skincare and who they suit: L-Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and Ascorbyl Glucoside.
If your skin is sensitive or you prefer a different route, I share effective alternatives that support antioxidant defence and even tone without the sting.
Some skincare works almost instantly, a moisturiser, face oil, or acid toner can transform parched, tired skin within days, bringing back softness, smoothness, and glow.
But deeper, lasting results, like firmer, brighter, stronger skin, take time. True transformation happens gradually as your skin renews itself from within, building collagen, restoring balance, and strengthening its barrier.
In this blog, we explore what’s really happening beneath the surface, why cell renewal slows with age, and how long it genuinely takes for your skincare to work.
Because when you understand how your skin truly works, you can stop chasing quick fixes and start supporting the natural rhythm that keeps it healthy, resilient and radiant for decades to come.
