by Ané Auret 8 min read
Skincare marketing has never been louder, more persuasive, or more confusing.
Words like clean, natural, chemical-free, and non-toxic are everywhere - designed to make us feel safe, reassured, and confident in our choices. And when it comes to our skin, especially as it changes over time, that reassurance can feel incredibly appealing.
The problem is that many of these phrases sound scientific, responsible, or protective, but have no clear definition, no regulatory standard, and often very little connection to cosmetic chemistry.
This article isn’t about criticising brands or telling you what to buy.
It’s about helping you see through the language, understand what these claims actually mean, and make decisions based on evidence rather than fear.
Skincare marketing is an art form, full of comforting, superior-sounding language designed to make you feel safe and hopeful about your purchase.
But these phrases often create more confusion than clarity, steering you away from products based on real science in favour of those with the catchiest slogans.
As conscious consumers, our goal should be to make choices based on evidence and cosmetic chemistry, not fear-mongering.
Here are seven of the most common (and misleading) marketing claims you’ll see on packaging, what they actually mean, and why you should approach them with a healthy dose of skepticism.
When you see a product marketed as “Chemical-Free,” consider it a major red flag.
This claim is fundamentally impossible and demonstrates a misunderstanding of basic science.
The Reality:
Every single substance in the universe is a chemical. Every cream, oil, serum, and even the water we drink is composed of chemical compounds. Ingredients like Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, Rose Oil, and even pure water (H₂O) are all chemicals.
The Caution:
If a brand claims to be “chemical-free,” it tells you one of two things: either they genuinely don’t understand cosmetic chemistry, or they are deliberately using fear as a marketing tactic.
Chemicals are not the enemy; unsafe, unstable, or highly irritating ingredients are the things you might want to avoid. Focus on ingredient safety and efficacy, not on a false binary between “natural” and “chemical.”
Practical Example:
When you apply a popular “natural” face oil made of 100% Argan Oil, you are applying a complex blend of oleic acid, linoleic acid, and tocopherols (Vitamin E) - all of which are chemicals. There is no such thing as a truly chemical-free product.
The phrase “All Natural” sounds pure and superior, but it’s an ideal that is nearly impossible to achieve in a modern, stable skincare formula - and often, it’s not even desirable.
The Reality:
“Natural” doesn’t automatically mean stable, safe, or effective. Many common natural ingredients, particularly essential oils, are well-known allergens or irritants.
To be truly “natural,” a product would have to exclude essential stabilisers and preservatives, which are necessary for product integrity and safety.
The Caution:
The performance, stability, and evidence behind an ingredient are what truly matter. Many of the most impactful skincare ingredients are synthetically derived for purity, stability, and sustainability.
Practical Example:
Some of the most potent and proven ingredients, such as retinoids (like retinaldehyde), peptides, and highly stable Vitamin C derivatives (like ascorbyl glucoside), are created synthetically in a lab. This synthetic process is often more sustainable, has less environmental impact (no mass harvesting required), and yields a purer, more stable ingredient that your skin can actually use.
“Clean Beauty” is one of the most popular phrases in modern marketing, yet it has no legal or scientific definition. No two brands define it the same way.
The Reality:
For some brands, “clean” might mean being free from a specific list of ingredients. For others, it might simply be a commitment to transparency or environmental mindfulness. Because the term lacks standardisation, it becomes meaningless from a scientific perspective.
The Caution:
Don’t rely on the word “clean.” Instead, look for what the brand actually explains and does. Are they transparent about the concentrations of their key actives?
Do they provide evidence for why they chose specific ingredients?
Do they show a deep understanding of formulation science, or do they rely on creating fear about non-clean ingredients? A brand’s integrity is what matters, not the label “clean.”
Practical Example:
Brand A might ban all parabens and silicones to be “clean.”
Brand B might allow silicones but ban synthetic fragrance and certain UV filters.
Both can call themselves “clean,” yet their ingredient lists will look dramatically different - proving that the term is an internal marketing choice, not an external, regulated standard of safety or quality.
The claim “Free From Chemicals You Can’t Pronounce” is designed specifically to play on consumer fear of the unfamiliar, not science.
The Reality:
Many ingredients with complex-sounding names are actually simple, safe, and essential to a product’s performance. Plant extracts are often listed by their Latin names, and stabilising and conditioning agents have long names but are gentle and beneficial.
The Caution:
Conversely, many common allergens and irritants have short, simple names (like “Fragrance” or “Limonene”). Pronunciation tells you absolutely nothing about an ingredient’s safety or efficacy. Focus your education on the function of the ingredient (for example: is it an antioxidant, an emulsifier, or a humectant?) and how it behaves in a formulation.
Practical Example:
The conditioning agent Cetearyl Olivate is gentle, safe, and derived from olive oil, but it may be a slightly difficult word to pronounce. Meanwhile, Peanut Oil - a severe allergen for some - is easy to say.
When looking at an INCI list, focus on what the ingredient is, not how it sounds.
If a product contains water (which most lotions, creams, and serums do), it must have a preservation system. Approach the claim “No Preservatives” with extreme caution.
The Reality:
Water-based formulas are a breeding ground for bacteria, mould, and fungi.
Preservatives are non-negotiable for consumer safety and product longevity.
If a brand claims to be “preservative-free,” they may be misunderstanding their formula, or relying on other ingredients to fulfil the role.
The Caution:
Preservatives are not the enemy; unpreserved, microbially contaminated skincare is. Look for well-tested, broad-spectrum preservation systems that ensure the product remains safe throughout its shelf life.
Practical Example:
A brand may state “No Preservatives Added!” on the front label. However, when you check the INCI list, you find ingredients like Caprylyl Glycol or Ethylhexylglycerin listed. While these ingredients perform other functions (like conditioning or moisturising), they are also well-known multifunctional ingredients often used at sufficient concentrations to act as the formula’s primary preservation system. The claim is technically misleading, as the preservation function is absolutely present — just delivered by ingredients not traditionally classified only as preservatives.
“Non-Toxic” or “Toxic-Free” are common, unregulated claims that sound reassuring but lack a factual basis in cosmetic science.
The Reality:
The fundamental principle in toxicology is that the dose makes the poison. Every ingredient approved for cosmetic use has been rigorously assessed for safety at its permitted levels of concentration.
The Caution:
These words are often used emotionally rather than factually to generate fear about a competitor’s product. Instead of worrying about a product being “toxic,” focus on ensuring the brand adheres to safety regulations and uses ingredients within their established, safe usage rates.
Practical Example:
Urea is a common moisturising ingredient found naturally in the skin. When used in a face cream at a 1% or 2% concentration, it is non-toxic and beneficial.
However, if used in a foot peel at a 40% concentration, it becomes an intense chemical exfoliant. The exact same chemical is safe or “toxic” depending entirely on its dose, not its inherent nature.
“Medical grade skincare” is a term that sounds authoritative, clinical, and results-driven - but in reality, it has no legal, scientific, or regulatory definition in cosmetic science.
The Reality:
There is no governing body that certifies skincare as “medical grade.” A cream sold in a clinic, prescribed by a practitioner, or recommended after a treatment is still regulated as a cosmetic unless it contains prescription-only drugs (such as tretinoin).
The ingredients, manufacturing standards, and safety assessments are governed by the same cosmetic regulations as products sold in retail - whether you're an Indie Beauty brand like Beauty by Ané Skincare or a global "medical" skincare brand.
In other words, “medical grade” is a marketing descriptor, not a scientific classification.
The Caution:
This term is often used to imply superiority, higher potency, or greater safety - and to justify higher prices - without providing meaningful formulation detail.
It can also make consumers feel that non-clinic skincare is somehow inferior or ineffective, which simply isn’t true.
What matters is not where a product is sold, but:
the formulation quality
the choice and concentration of active ingredients
the delivery system
the stability and preservation
and whether the product is appropriate for your skin
Many exceptionally well-formulated products exist outside of clinics, just as some clinic-sold products rely heavily on branding rather than formulation sophistication.
💡 Practical Example:
Two moisturisers may contain identical key ingredients at similar concentrations — one sold in a dermatologist’s office and labelled “medical grade,” the other sold online without that label.
The regulatory status, ingredient safety, and biological effect on the skin can be essentially the same.
The difference lies in positioning, not necessarily performance.
At Ané Skincare, we don’t formulate around buzzwords.
We formulate around skin biology, cosmetic chemistry, and long-term skin health.
That means:
We don’t chase “chemical-free,” because chemicals are simply how skincare works
We don’t hide behind “clean,” because it has no scientific meaning
We don’t rely on fear-based language to sell reassurance
Instead, every formula is built with intention:
ingredients chosen for evidence, stability, and tolerance
preservation systems chosen for safety and longevity
actives used at meaningful, skin-appropriate concentrations
and a formulation philosophy designed to support changing skin over decades, not trends
We believe informed customers make confident choices - and confidence always lasts longer than hype.
Marketing language will always exist - it’s part of the beauty industry.
But understanding how to look beyond slogans is one of the most powerful tools you can develop as a skincare consumer.
When you learn to read an INCI list and recognise vague or misleading claims, you shift from relying on reassurance to relying on understanding.
That doesn’t mean you need to become a cosmetic chemist. It simply means knowing enough to ask better questions, trust brands that explain their choices clearly, and avoid decisions driven by fear.
Skincare should support your skin - not confuse you, alarm you, or pressure you.
If you ever want to look up an unfamiliar ingredient or better understand what you’re seeing on an INCI list, incidecoder.com is a useful and accessible resource.
It breaks down cosmetic ingredients in plain language, explaining what they are commonly used for, how they behave in formulations, and whether they’re typically considered well-tolerated or potentially sensitising.
While no database can replace professional formulation context or predict how your individual skin will respond, tools like INCI Decoder can help demystify long ingredient names and give you a clearer starting point.
Used thoughtfully, it’s a helpful way to build ingredient awareness without falling into fear-based interpretations or misinformation.
One final red flag to be aware of is fear-mongering.
Some brands rely on alarming language to make you feel that your current skincare choices are unsafe, irresponsible, or somehow “wrong” - often using words like toxic, dirty, chemical-laden, or dangerous without scientific context.
This kind of messaging is designed to create anxiety and urgency, not understanding.
You should never feel scared into buying a product, nor made to feel ashamed or careless for choices you’ve made in good faith.
Skincare should be supportive, informative, and empowering - not rooted in fear.
Brands that educate calmly, explain their reasoning clearly, and respect your intelligence are far more trustworthy than those that sell reassurance by undermining your confidence.
by Ané Auret 7 min read
You’ve chosen your perfect Vitamin C - now, how do you use it effectively?
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This Q&A is your cheat sheet for making Vitamin C work hardest for your midlife skin.
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In Part 2 of our 'Vitamin C For Midlife Skin Decoded' guide, I break down the science of oil-soluble vs. water-soluble forms so you can shop smarter, avoid irritation, and invest in a stable serum that actually works for your sensitive, midlife skin.
Plus, a complete list of alternative ingredients if Vitamin C just isn't for you.
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You’ll find a clear overview of the main forms used in skincare and who they suit: L-Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and Ascorbyl Glucoside.
If your skin is sensitive or you prefer a different route, I share effective alternatives that support antioxidant defence and even tone without the sting.