Your Cart is Empty
What's the first thing that catches your eye when you pick up a new skincare product?
Is it the pretty logo, the promise of smoother, glowy skin splashed across the packaging, or maybe the luxurious feel of the bottle in your hand?
For years, I was taken in by these visual cues, seduced by the marketing magic of new launches and miracle promises.
But now? I go straight for the ingredients list.
Yes, I've become that person—proudly geeky about the science behind skincare. Not just in terms of our own formulations for Ané skincare, but also as a consumer of cosmetics. I try not to obsess about it too much but I’m the same with food and supplements for example.
The ingredients list, that seemingly cryptic collection of words, is where a large part of a product’s real story lies.
But let's be honest, it can sometimes feel like trying to decipher an ancient language, especially when confronted with a barrage of unpronounceable terms.
What do they actually mean? And why does it seem to be so complicated?
We all know there are certain ingredients that have earned their place as staples in our skincare routines.
For me, having Vitamin C and Retinol in my routine is non-negotiable.
Both have multiple derivatives and can be formulated in varying strengths, making the selection process a bit of a maze.
As a consumer, it's incredibly challenging to navigate these options and determine what's best for your unique skin, your concerns and what you want to achieve with your routine.
Most of the time, choosing the best skincare products for you comes down to trial and error, as a product, ingredient or derivative of an ingredient that works wonders for one person might cause irritation for another.
I’ve certainly experienced this firsthand. I don’t know about you, but how many times have you seen raving reviews for a product just to try it and then having some sort of reaction to it - not because there is something wrong with the product per se, it’s just that we don’t all tolerate everything as well or the same as someone else.
Cosmetic companies invest immense time and energy in crafting their messaging, highlighting their "star" ingredients and promising transformative results.
But ultimately, I believe it's our responsibility as consumers to educate ourselves about what we want—and don't want—to apply to our skin.
I'm writing this not only as a product creator but also as a daily user of various cosmetics and personal care products.
I have very specific ideas about what I’m comfortable using and would never include an ingredient in my formulations that I wouldn’t use myself every single day.
Fortunately, in today's digital age, it's easy to research your favourite products.
If you're ever in doubt, check it out or can’t find the information you’re looking for - reach out to the brand directly.
Let’s dive into 5 key points to know about reading your skincare labels (INCIs).
Unless you work in the cosmetics industry, the term INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) might be new to you.
The structured way ingredients are listed on your product packaging is known as the INCI list, a vital tool for understanding what you're applying to your skin.
Essentially, it's a standardised ingredient list that follows a clearly defined framework - and another name for a skincare ingredient list.
Under the INCI system, ingredients are named using their scientific names, and botanical extracts are listed by their Latin names.
This standardisation ensures transparency and consistency, making it easier to compare products across different countries and in different languages.
For example, what you recognise as Hyaluronic Acid appears on an INCI list as Sodium Hyaluronate and Baobab Oil is listed as Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil (the Latin name as it’s a botanical product/ingredient).
I've personally found the INCI list on cosmetic packaging invaluable when travelling, particularly in countries with different alphabets, like Greece, Asia, and the Middle East.
Even when I couldn't decipher the local language or the product description on the packaging, the INCI list was always in English and I could be clear about any purchase I was making.
It's so helpful to have this universal language of skincare, ensuring you can always check the ingredients, no matter where you are.
What the INCI Tells Us:
What the INCI Doesn't Tell Us:
On this point, I also know of customers who have always been able to tolerate a certain ingredient for example, and then, later on, develop some sort of allergic reaction or sensitivity to it.
The order in which ingredients are listed on the INCI list is determined by their concentration, with the highest amounts appearing first. However, there's a catch: once an ingredient is present at less than 1%, brands have the flexibility to list them in any order.
This is why a powerful active ingredient like Retinaldehyde (Retinal) might be listed towards the bottom, even though it's highly effective at low concentrations. The same can be said for certain highly concentrated peptides, for example. Just because it’s lower on the ingredient list does not mean it’s less powerful and it may well be that the manufacture and clinical studies indicate and recommend usage at a lower inclusion level.
Similarly, a "hero ingredient" prominently advertised on the front of the packaging might be present in a low concentration—always check where it appears on the INCI list.
This understanding helps you gauge the true potency of a product, but it’s certainly not the most important factor in choosing a product. Stronger and higher percentages of ingredients do not necessarily mean a better product. It is always about the overall formulation.
Many ingredients have complex-sounding scientific names, but this shouldn't intimidate or concern you.
For example, Triticum Vulgare is simply Wheatgerm Oil, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable form of Vitamin C, and Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol are fatty alcohols that condition the skin (not the drying kind!).
Don't fall for the myth that if you can't pronounce an ingredient, you shouldn't use it.
This is a classic example of misinformation. Pronunciation has absolutely nothing to do with the safety or efficacy of an ingredient.
As we’ve seen above, plant-derived ingredients are often listed by their Latin names, which can be difficult to pronounce, even if the ingredient itself is completely natural and harmless.
Conversely, some very simple-sounding names might hide potentially irritating or harmful chemicals.
Focus on understanding the actual ingredient and its properties, not just how easily you can say its name.
If you have sensitive skin or allergies, paying close attention to allergens and fragrances is crucial. You may well be aware of this for yourself already.
Common fragrance allergens, such as Limonene, Linalool, and Geraniol, are often found in essential oils and are typically listed at the end of the INCI list - indicated by and asterisk*.
Another tricky one is "Fragrance" or "Parfum," which can represent dozens of undisclosed ingredients. Some brands use fragrance-free formulas or disclose their full fragrance composition, but many do not.
This is not to say you should avoid fragrance - but if you are reactive to fragrance, look for products explicitly labelled "fragrance-free," rather than just "unscented," which may still contain masking fragrances.
Avoiding fragrance is an entirely personal choice. Some people really enjoy lovely-smelling skincare, while others prefer something without fragrance or can simply not tolerate it.
Skincare brands meticulously craft their marketing around their "star ingredients," but the full INCI list reveals the complete picture.
Educating yourself on ingredients empowers you to understand what you're truly buying, identify potential irritants or allergens, and recognise effective concentrations of active ingredients (as far as possible).
One common myth in skincare is that formulations are packed with "filler" ingredients.
In reality, every ingredient has a function, whether it's an emulsifier to blend oil and water, a stabiliser to keep the formula safe, or a humectant to boost hydration.
The additional ingredients beyond the more well-known actives like Retinoids, Vitamin C’s, Hyaluronic Acids, Peptides, Ceramides etc. are essential to the science of rheology, which governs how a product spreads, absorbs, and interacts with the skin.
Without them, the texture, effectiveness, stability and longevity of the formula would be compromised.
A helpful resource for researching ingredients: INCI Decoder
Decoding the INCI: Practical Tips for Informed Choices
*** It may of course be that none of this interests you (if you’ve read this far I assume it probably does :) - but I also know several customers and friends who really don’t care that much and just want something that works without having to do all the ingredient research. And that’s totally fine too.
Learning to read INCI lists might seem daunting at first, but it becomes second nature with practice.
While it's not the only factor determining a product's effectiveness, it's a crucial tool for making informed skincare choices.
Remember, great skincare is about the overall formulation, not just individual ingredients.
A well-balanced formula is greater than the sum of its parts, and that’s where expert formulation comes in.
It’s also important to acknowledge that no INCI list can tell you whether a product will work for you.
That’s why trial and error is such a key part of skincare. Always patch test and start slow when introducing a new product.
Your skin is unique, and what works beautifully for one person may not be suitable for another.
Testing and observing how your skin responds is the only way to truly know what’s right for you.
So, next time you pick up a product, take a moment to decode the INCI list.
Knowledge is power, especially when it comes to taking charge of your skin concerns and changes over time.
Acids in skincare are more than just exfoliants. This comprehensive guide reveals the power of AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs, plus the essential role of acids naturally found in your body, like Hyaluronic Acid and amino acids, for truly healthy, radiant skin.
Looking back at nearly four decades of my skincare journey, I’ve learned a lot—the hard way. From SPF regrets to starting Retinoids too late, from neglecting my neck and chest to overcomplicating my routine, this is everything I wish I’d known sooner.
If you’ve ever wondered what really makes a difference long-term, this post is for you. Because it’s never too late to start.
Repair, Restore and Protect Your Skin’s Lipid Barrier Function - a strong, well-functioning lipid barrier is the foundation of healthy, glowing skin. In this blog we discuss how you can keep your skin’s most important line of defence fighting fit - the signs of a compromised lipid barrier, 7 key steps to take care of your skin lipid barrier and ingredients to look out for your in your products.
