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Following on from the previous blog about"How To Read and Understand Skincare Ingredient Lists / INCIs"we are going to do a deeper dive into the different types ingredients that you find on your INCI.
In today's blog we're exploring the difference between 'active' ingredients and "inactive" (functional) ingredients on your skincare ingredient list (INCI) so that you can know more about the science behind your favourite products and how they fit and work together in a formulation.
We debunk some skincare and ingredient myths, explain the fascinating science of Rheology and list out some examples of active and "inactive ingredients used in skincare and cosmetics.
*** There is also a sample Retinal & Peptide serum formulation at the end if you want to see what this looks like.
Skincare formulation is a fascinating blend of disciplines.
When I look at what cosmetic scientists and formulators do what comes to mind is a carefully orchestrated dance of science, art, and something just a little bit magical.
I like to think of it as 97% science—the precision of chemistry and biology; 2% art—the creativity in texture and feel—and 1% magic—that inexplicable spark that transforms ingredients into something truly special.
Ok - I know it's actually all science, but I've seen chemists work magic with a formulation with tricks of the trade up their sleeve and years of experience. If you ever get the chance to be in the lab where these formulations are created I'd recommend it.
In our previous blog we talked about "How to read the Ingredient list (INCI) on your product packaging".
Today, we're diving deeper into the actual ingredients that are listed and a crucial distinction: the difference between "active" and "inactive" (functional) ingredients.
Personally I disagree with this description because the ingredients typically described as “inactive” are anything but - every ingredient in your formulation has a role and purpose so there really is no thing such as an “inactive” ingredient.
Saying that - I do understand the sentiment or reason for describing it this way because we do need to make the distinction and it's an important part of reading your ingredient list.
We know that it is the well-known, much talked about “active” ingredients like the Retinoids and Vitamin C’s and peptides that get all the limelight, but today we're also talking about the rest of the ingredients in your product that is not recognised that much.
“Active” ingredients aside for a moment - there is a huge field in science called Rheology - the science of how materials flow and deform. In cosmetic science, rheology is absolutely crucial.
It dictates how a product feels on your skin, how easily it spreads, and how effectively it delivers its active ingredients
In essence, Rheology is the bridge between a product's formulation and its performance.
Cosmetic chemists carefully manipulate rheological properties to create products that not only deliver effective results but also provide a pleasant and luxurious user experience.
They use a variety of functional ingredients, like viscosity enhancers, emulsifiers, and stabilisers, to achieve the desired rheological profile.
We cover this category further down in the blog so you can see how these ingredients work alongside your “active” ingredients to create a fully formed product that is stable, pleasant to use and supports the results that you’re getting.
Understanding this difference will empower you to make informed choices about your skincare, ensuring you're getting the results you desire.
Before we dive into the main part of the blog I feel it’s important to debunk a few important points about ingredients used in skincare.
One of the most misleading and frankly, scientifically inaccurate, marketing claims in the skincare industry is the notion of being "chemical-free." If a brand uses this it should be a big red flag as it shows a misunderstanding of basic chemistry and I would have questions about this.
This phrase preys on consumer fears, implying that "chemicals" are inherently harmful.
The reality is that everything is a chemical. Water (H2O), the air we breathe (a mixture of gases), and the natural oils derived from plants are all composed of chemicals.
To suggest that a product is "chemical-free" is not only misleading but fundamentally impossible.
In fact, if a product truly contained no chemicals, it wouldn't exist.
Brands using this term are exploiting a lack of scientific understanding and fostering unnecessary fear.
It's time to embrace the reality that chemistry is the foundation of everything, including the very products designed to enhance our skin's health, longevity and beauty.
Another common misconception is that "natural" ingredients are safer and superior to "synthetic" ones.
I’ve found over the years that when someone asks me about “chemicals” in a product, it often refers to a “synthetic” ingredient - not always, but it has happened often enough.
While natural ingredients can offer valuable benefits, it's crucial to understand that "natural" does not automatically equate to "safe" or "effective."
A very well-known example is Poison Ivy - which is natural, but you wouldn't put it on your face.
Similarly, synthetic ingredients are created in a lab - they undergo rigorous testing and can be purer and more consistent than their natural counterparts. They are also often much more environmentally friendly and sustainable as they don’t make use of natural resources.
The choice between natural and synthetic ingredients should be based on scientific evidence, safety data, and efficacy, not on fear-mongering marketing claims.
I've also seen brands who claim that they are all "natural" just to spot a peptide or some other synthetically derived ingredient(s) on an ingredient list.
Many synthetic ingredients are nature-identical and are created to be a pure and safe version of a natural ingredient.
Every brand has its own philosophy when it comes to its ingredient choices and how it communicates that to its customers.
I can only speak for myself - and at Beauty by Ané Skincare our approach is to use a combination of natural and synthetically derived ingredientsbecause I believe that gives us the best opportunity to create the high-performance skincare that we want to offer you.
I love the benefits that ingredients like Retinaldehyde, different types of peptides, Vitamin C derivatives and several other synthetic options can safely bring to our formulations - and most importantly to our customers and their skin concerns and goals.
I also love that we are in a position where modern science allows us to combine some of the best, cutting-edge synthetic ingredients with natural ingredients like botanical oils and extracts that have been around for centuries - and that we can bring all of this together in one formulation to offer you the best products we can and support you in your skin journey.
To me, this is an ideal path to follow, but it’s important that we all have the relevant information to make the best decisions according to our own needs.
It's a decision only you can make. Always reach out to the brand directly if you have any questions about this.
As we've seen above it's common to hear skincare ingredients categorised as "active" and "inactive," implying that the latter are simply fillers or unnecessary components.
This is a significant misconception. In reality, functional ingredients are far from 'inactive'; they are essential for the product's efficacy, stability, and user experience.
Active ingredients are the workhorses of your skincare routine.
There are thousands of different ingredients and their derivatives on the market so we will cover only the main categories/ingredient families with some of the more well-known and familiar examples.
These are the components scientifically proven to address specific skin concerns.
They're the ingredients that deliver the promised results, whether it's reducing wrinkles and fine lines, clearing acne, or brightening hyperpigmentation.
Examples of Active Ingredients:
1. Retinoids (Vitamin A Derivatives):
2. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs):
3. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs):
4.Antioxidants - Purpose:
Vitamin-Based Antioxidants:
Plant Extract Antioxidants:
5. Brighteners/Anti-Pigmentation: To Help Reduce hyperpigmentation, even skin tone, and brighten complexion.
6. Humectants: To Attract and retain moisture in the skin.
7. Emollients (Including Plant Oils, EFAs, and Sterols): To Help Soften, smooth, and Moisturise the skin; and strengthen the skin barrier.
Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs):
8. Occlusives: To form a protective barrier on the skin's surface, preventing moisture loss.
9. Peptides (Various Types): Improve skin firmness, reduce wrinkles, and enhance skin repair.
10. Growth Factors:
11. Exosomes:
Also known as “Inactive” Ingredients - I’m sure you’ll see below that they do work very hard in your formulation and that’s why I prefer to refer to them as ‘Functional’ ingredients.
Functional ingredients are the supporting cast of your skincare products.
They don't directly address skin concerns, but they're essential for the product's texture, stability, and overall usability.
Examples of Functional Ingredients:
Now, this is where it gets extra interesting - because we also have lots of ingredients that are ‘multifunctional”. That means that while they can be used as a ‘functional’ ingredient, ie. an emulsifier - they have also been proven to have a significant effect on certain skin concerns and that they can benefit the skin the way an ‘active’ ingredient can.
This category highlights ingredients that serve essential functional roles in a formulation while also providing clinically proven skin benefits.
These ingredients contribute to the product's texture, stability, and overall usability while simultaneously delivering targeted results.
Examples of Multifunctional Ingredients:
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Below is a SAMPLE Formulation and a hypothetical manufacturing method to show you the combination of Active and Functional ingredients in a formulation.
SAMPLE Retinaldehyde & Peptide Brightening Serum - Emulsion Formulation:
Phase A (Water Phase):
Phase B (Oil Phase):
Phase C (Active Phase):
Phase D (Preservative Phase):
Sample Manufacturing Process:
How to read skincare labels and decipher cosmetic ingredients is an important part of your choosing your products and routine. The INCI is the official term for your product ingredients list and this blog explains more about what the INCI is and how it works.
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