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When you hear the word “acid”, a beneficial skincare ingredient probably isn't the first thing that springs to mind, I know it certainly wasn't for me! But I've since learned that there are several types of acids referred to when it comes to skincare ingredients, and indeed our very own physiology and biology.
A quick example that comes to mind is 'amino acids' - we hear about amino acids when we talk about peptides in our skincare, but amino acids are actually the building blocks of proteins in our own bodies. We'll go into much more detail as we explore further.
As I've discovered the various differences between acids and the role they play in correcting, protecting and even healing skin, I became fascinated by the wide range of applications they can have; everything from exfoliating your skin to deeply hydrating it.
You may hear and read about all sorts of different ‘acids’ in your skincare products, or maybe you want to start including an acid product in your routine and you’re not quite sure where to begin or what kind of acid you actually need.
To differentiate between the different kinds of ‘Acids in Skincare’, I’ve divided them into three basic and easy-to-follow categories, where we will discuss each type in more detail, as well as some specific ingredient examples.
There is no one-size-fits-all approach, though. Because acids target a range of skin concerns depending on their strength and molecular size, it is important to understand the different types by doing your research and picking products based on your own skin type and concerns.
It’s also possible to combine and layer acid-based products in your skincare routine, but, if you’re in any doubt, it’s always best to consult your dermatologist or a facial specialist.
In this article, I will explain the unique qualities of the different types so that you can make the best decision for your unique skin.
Here is a quick guide to some of the most commonly used acids in skincare products and what they can do for you.
found in our skin and physiology, these acids support hydration, barrier strength, and overall skin function.
can provide antioxidant protection, reduce pigmentation, or help with acne and inflammation.
help remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and reveal fresher, more radiant skin.
Hyaluronic acid isn't an exfoliating acid, but a humectant.
Found naturally in the human body, Hyaluronic Acid helps skin attract and retain moisture to keep it looking plump and hydrated. In fact, it can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, which pretty much makes it a hydration sponge! It is found everywhere in our bodies, including our joints, and not only attracts moisture but bonds to it to keep it from evaporating away!
As we age, the amount of Hyaluronic Acid our body produces decreases, which can leave us with duller-looking and less supple skin.
Skincare formulations often use different molecular weights of HA. High-molecular-weight HA forms a moisture barrier on the surface, while low-molecular-weight HA penetrates deeper, delivering hydration from within.
Some products also include Sodium Hyaluronate, a salt derivative of HA, which is more stable and easily absorbed. Regular use of HA can boost hydration levels, reducing fine lines and making the skin appear more supple and refreshed.
EFAs come in four main types:
EFAs are essential building blocks for the skin’s cell membranes and help protect the skin barrier, and can be found in both animal and plant sources, which are equally effective.
They are "essential" because our bodies can’t produce them; they are acquired through our diet or topical skincare products like a plant-based face oil, ie. Glow in a Bottle Face Oil.
They are indispensable when it comes to building and protecting the skin’s moisture barrier and keeping your skin radiant and healthy-looking.
Deficiency in EFAs can result in dryness, irritation, and an impaired barrier function, so incorporating them into both diet and skincare is key.
Essential fatty acids are beneficial for more than just moisturising your skin, too.
They also help calm signs of external stress, strengthen your skin and help reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
You'll find a wealth of EFAs in our Glow in a Bottle Face Oil and Radiance Reveal Cleansing Balm, packed with nourishing plant oils.
Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and proteins are essential for healthy skin. They play a vital role in everything from collagen and elastin production (hello, youthful skin!) to maintaining the skin's natural barrier. Different amino acids have different benefits.
Amino acids, in particular, play a crucial role in maintaining skin hydration. They are key components of the skin's Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF), a complex mix of substances that help the skin retain water and maintain its protective barrier.
A healthy NMF is essential for preventing dryness, irritation, and premature ageing, and incorporating amino acid-rich skincare can help support and replenish this vital component.
Some amino acids are powerful antioxidants, while others help to hydrate and soothe the skin.
Keep an eye out for ingredients like glycine, proline, and lysine in your skincare products.
Found in grains, Azelaic Acid is a popular choice among dermatologists when it comes to treating acne. It is similar to vitamin A (or retinoic acid) in the way it behaves. Depending on the severity of the acne you are treating, you can either get it in a prescription strength (15%-20%) or over the counter (3%).
As well as treating acne, Azelaic Acid is also very effective in reducing inflammation that causes rosacea and lightening hyperpigmentation. To see results for either of those concerns, expect to use it consistently for at least a few months to allow the azelaic acid time to work at a deeper level.
Azelaic Acid is gentle enough to be listed as a non-exfoliating acid, but it does have some exfoliating properties. It’s excellent at gently cleaning your pores of dirt and bacteria, resulting in fewer blackheads and smaller-looking pores!
One really interesting feature of Azelaic Acid is that even though it is derived from wheat and other grains, it is considered gluten-free! It has a very small, but not zero chance of triggering an allergic reaction and is considered mild and suitable for most skin types.
This powerful, yet non-irritating acid is a synthetic one, derived from Lysine (amino acid). It has been used for decades with excellent results. In fact, it was originally given internally as a treatment for women with irregular menstrual cycles!
Today, it is developing a reputation as a skincare miracle ingredient for its seemingly superhero ability to lighten dark spots, reduce acne scarring, and even out skin tone! It works by actively disrupting the pathways that lead to excess melanin production in your skin. It is often applied during micro-needling procedures to deliver it more directly to the deeper layers of skin. While some lightening ingredients have shown diminished results after discontinued use, Tranexamic Acid may actually prevent future discoloration, even after a time of not using it.
Tranexamic Acid (or TXA) is readily available over the counter as well, and can safely be used every day. It can safely be used in conjunction with many other acids, including Retinol and Ascorbic Acid. In fact, combining it with an active Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) product will maximise the TXA’s brightening benefits.
You'll find Tranexamic Acid in our Ané Exfoliating Acid Toner, working alongside our AHA complex and BHA (Betaine Salicylate).
Lactobionic acid is a PHA (more on those later) but often considered a non-exfoliating acid due to its gentle nature. It's derived from milk sugar and is a powerful humectant, meaning it draws moisture to the skin.
It also acts as an antioxidant and helps to strengthen the skin barrier. It's a great option for sensitive skin.
Ascorbic Acid is more commonly known as the pure form of Vitamin C. It’s a busy acid with lots of roles, including UV protection, co-factor in collagen production, antioxidant protection, skin brightening and inflammation reduction.
Its antioxidant properties protect the skin against UV-induced free radicals, helping reverse the signs of ageing.
Ascorbic Acid has a tricky side, though. Apart from your skin, it is very unstable and can be rendered ineffective if exposed to heat, air or light.
Because of this, it is packaged in opaque containers to protect its integrity. Avoid buying Ascorbic Acid-containing products that are packaged in clear containers.
One more exciting benefit of Ascorbic Acid is that it supports collagen production - it does this by stimulating the cell responsible for collagen production, the fibroblast.
It is often paired with other hyperpigmentation-inhibiting ingredients, such as Tranexamic Acid, to help stabilise it and make it into an effective skin-brightening ingredient.
Ferulic Acid is a plant-based acid found in the leaves and seeds of a variety of fruits and vegetables, even in some grains. It is a strong, yet gentle antioxidant and slows the signs of ageing, including dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles, and even sagging skin.
It also calms inflammation and breakouts by slowing the oxidative process. Not only is ferulic acid excellent on its own, but it can also boost the effectiveness of Vitamins C and E by stabilising them.
Like Ascorbic acid, it is light sensitive and should be packaged in an opaque container.
Succinic acid has been used for years in natural medicine, but only recently has it become a popular ingredient in skincare.
It’s a powerful yet gentle acid that boasts a multitude of benefits when used in a healthy skincare routine. In nature, it can be found in sugar cane and amber, and can also be obtained through the fermentation process of making apple cider vinegar. It’s more recently becoming well known as a skincare ingredient for a few reasons. Succinic Acid:
Succinic acid is an excellent addition to any skincare routine.
Phytic acid is another plant-derived acid; in fact, it is found in almost every grain, nut and legume! Even though it is not considered an exfoliating acid, it is chemically close to the AHA family. It is a very mild exfoliator, gently cleaning dead skin cells and dirt from your pores.
The process of sloughing dead skin cells reveals healthier, more radiant skin. Even better, it is loaded with antioxidants that protect from external stressors such as pollution. The antioxidant properties also speed up the rate of cell turnover to keep the healthiest cells at the surface!
Phytic acid has the unique ability to absorb certain minerals, such as excess iron that has been shown to cause DNA damage in high concentrations. It is a very gentle acid and considered safe for everyday use on all skin types.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) and Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) are non-abrasive, liquid leave-on exfoliants, also known as chemical exfoliants.
They can be divided into three main groups:
The most well-known AHAs are Glycolic, Citric, Mandelic and Lactic Acids. These ingredients are most often used in acid toners and liquid exfoliant-type products and are called 'chemical exfoliants' as opposed to face scrubs that would typically be referred to as 'physical exfoliants'.
A 'chemical exfoliant' is usually available as a watery, liquid-type product or pads soaked in the acid product itself.
Chemical exfoliation using AHAs works by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells and gently sloughing them away to reveal brighter, softer and more radiant-looking skin.
An example of this type of product is our Ané Exfoliating Acid Toner.
Consistent, yet gentle, chemical exfoliation with AHAs in an acid toner and liquid exfoliant product can help to:
Salicylic Acid (typically derived from aspirin and naturally found in willow bark) is the most common and well-known form of BHA.
Willow bark extract has been used for centuries for its anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties, thanks to its natural salicylic acid content.
While salicylic acid is often synthesized for skincare products, willow bark extract offers a gentler, more natural source of this BHA.
It is oil-soluble and therefore able to work deeper inside pores where its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties can be ideal for acne-prone skin, targeting congestion and blackheads.
BHAs have less exfoliating power than AHAs but are still effective in targeting acne. Because BHAs are oil-soluble, they are more suitable for oily skin, but they are less effective than AHAs in exfoliating off dead skin cells.
It can also clear up excess oil with consistent use and help soothe stressed or irritated skin. On ingredients lists, they will typically be listed as Salicylic acid.
In the Ané Exfoliating Acid Toner, we use Betaine Salicylate.
Betaine Salicylate is a gentler, more hydrating form of salicylic acid. It offers the same pore-clearing benefits as salicylic acid but with less irritation, making it suitable for even sensitive skin types.
It's derived from sugar beets and combines salicylic acid with betaine, a natural humectant that helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin. This makes it an excellent choice for those who want to address acne and blemishes without drying out their skin.
This gentle yet effective approach makes our Exfoliating Acid Toner a great option for those looking to incorporate a BHA into their routine without the risk of excessive dryness or irritation.
Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acids are next-generation AHAs.
This is a good chemical exfoliant option for more sensitive skin types that don’t tolerate AHAs/BHAs well. Due to their larger molecule size, PHAs penetrate slower and cause less irritation.
While AHAs and BHAs are naturally sourced, they can be irritating to people with sensitive skin. If your skin is having trouble tolerating products with either of those, try looking for one with PHAs.
Some of the things PHAs can do to benefit your skin are:
On ingredients lists, you may see them listed as Gluconolactone acid or Lactobionic acid.
Before adding an acid-containing product (especially the exfoliating acid category) to your skincare routine, here are a few things to keep in mind:
As you can see there is a wide variety of 'acids' in skincare and it really depends on what your particular skin concerns and goals are when it comes to choosing the right products and ingredients for you.
When we talk about 'acids in skincare' it usually refers to only the exfoliating acids.
With this guide it was my aim to differentiate between the different types as I know from questions and conversations of customers that it can be very confusing to distinguish between different types and functions when all these ingredients have the word 'acid' in them.
Some acids may not be recommended for people with sensitive skin or for people with skin conditions like rosacea, eczema or psoriasis - especially the exfoliating acids. Avoid if you have broken or peeling skin.
Always consult your Dermatologist or Facial Specialist.
Putting the effort into adding acid-containing products to your skincare routine will be well worth it once you start seeing some of the incredible results that come with them!
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