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Key Takeaway: Hydration adds water via humectants; moisture seals it with lipids. For skin over 35 in particular, you need to balance both to combat trans-epidermal water loss and optimise your skin barrier function to help slow down signs of ageing.
Today, we're diving deep into a topic that can be quite confusing in the skincare world: hydration versus moisture.
You've seen these words everywhere, most of the time interchangeably- on product labels, in beauty magazines, by online experts and influencers and the like.
And here's the thing: many brilliant science communicators, like the incredible Michelle Wong of Lab Muffin Beauty Science (I do recommend you check her out), will rightly tell you that from a strict dermatological and chemical perspective, 'hydration' and 'moisture' often refer to the same thing - the water content in your skin.
And they are absolutely spot on!
However, for us here at Beauty by Ané, when we're navigating our daily routines and trying to understand exactly what our skin needs to look and feel its absolute best, it can be incredibly helpful to think of these two terms as describing two distinct, yet equally vital, jobs for our skin.
It helps us to give more of a framework around our routine, to describe the steps and the products we use, but it's also about the fact that when it comes to product formulation and ingredient choices there are distinct differences between hydration and moisture.
So, let's break down this skincare duo with a practical, science-based approach that will help you to choose the right products for your unique skin and what you need.
Imagine your skin is like a kitchen sponge (just for descriptive purposes)
Hydration is about adding water to that sponge.
Think of it as quenching your skin's thirst. When your skin is well-hydrated, it’s plump, bouncy, and feels elastic (or 'springy' as my niece likes to call it). It's like a sponge that's full of water, soft and pliable.
Moisture is about sealing that water into the sponge with a protective layer.
This prevents the water from evaporating too quickly. When your skin is properly moisturised, its outer barrier is strong, it feels smooth, soft, and is better protected from the elements. It’s like wrapping that water-filled sponge in cling film - it keeps the water from escaping (this is what is called trans-epidermal water loss in skincare terms).
See the distinction?
One brings the water (hydration), the other keeps it there (moisture).
We need both for optimal barrier function and skin health.
Dehydrated Skin (Lacking Water)
This is a skin condition, not a skin type, meaning it can affect anyone, yes, even oily skin types can be dehydrated.
What it feels like: Your skin might feel tight, especially after cleansing. You might notice fine lines appearing more prominent, or your skin might look a bit dull and lack radiance.
Sometimes, dehydrated skin can even overproduce oil to compensate for the lack of water, leading to confusion.
What it needs: It needs an influx of water-attracting ingredients to replenish its reserves = hydration.
Dry Skin (Lacking Oil/Lipids)
This is typically a skin type, meaning it's a more persistent characteristic of your skin - maybe you were born with a dry skin type, or if you're anything like me - my skin is getting progressively drier as I'm getting older due to hormonal and other changes that are slowing down natural process.
My skin has changed from very oily / combination to now being mainly dry and in need of a lot more oil-based / lipid content than it did 10 years ago or so.
What it feels like: Your skin's natural barrier is compromised due to a lack of natural oils (lipids).
This can lead to a rough, flaky texture, itchiness, redness, and a feeling of discomfort.
Dry skin struggles to create that protective seal to prevent water loss.
What it needs: It needs oil-rich (lipid) ingredients to fortify its barrier and prevent precious water from escaping = moisture.
As we age, particularly after 35, our skin undergoes changes that make balancing hydration and moisture even more crucial.
Hormonal shifts, such as those during perimenopause (losing estrogen in particular), reduce the production of natural hyaluronic acid (HA), ceramides, and the skin's natural moisturising factor (NMF) - a blend of amino acids and electrolytes that help retain water.
This can lead to losing up to 30% or more in these essential components with age, increasing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), fine lines, dullness, and a weakened barrier.
For women 35+, hydration plumps collagen-depleted cells to combat sagging and elasticity loss, while moisture rebuilds the thinning barrier for resilience against environmental stressors like pollution and UV.
Optimising both can slow visible signs of ageing, with studies showing improved skin biomechanics and reduced dryness in mature skin.
Just like a car's engine needs both coolant (water) and lubricant (oil) to run smoothly (again just for descriptive purposes - I'm not comparing your skin to a car engine :) - our skin needs a constant balance of water and oil to be healthy. The same goes for our brains too - we need both optimal water content as well as healthy fats (oil/lipids) to function properly.
So let's look at it like this - you may have heard this analogy before: the skin's outer layer, the stratum corneum, is a "brick and mortar" structure.
The 'bricks' are your skin cells, and the 'mortar' is a lipid (oil) matrix.
Both are essential for a strong, resilient barrier.
This model explains why unbalanced routines can significantly increase TEWL in mature skin.
This balance is not just about the products you apply externally, but also about what you put into your body - let's look at an Outside / Inside approach:
Hydrating Heroes: Humectants (Skincare Ingredients To Attract Water)
These are primarily water-soluble ingredients that act like magnets for water, drawing it from the deeper layers of your skin and even from the air around you into the epidermis. Note: In low-humidity environments, pair humectants with occlusives to prevent them from drawing water out of the skin, which could worsen dehydration.A few Key Ingredients:Your skin has a built-in hydration system called the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF).
This isn't a single ingredient, but a complex group of water-soluble compounds naturally present in the very top layer of your skin.
The NMF is made up of amino acids, urea, lactic acid, and other substances that work like tiny, effective sponges.
Its primary job is to attract and bind water from the atmosphere and from the deeper layers of your skin, keeping your outer skin cells plump, hydrated, and functioning properly.
Moisturising Masters: Emollients & Occlusives (Skincare Ingredients To Seal & Soften)
These ingredients are typically oil-based and work in two main ways to fortify your skin's barrier.
For quick reference, here's a comparison table:
|
Category |
Hydration (Water-Focused) |
Moisture (Barrier-Focused) |
|
Key Role |
Attracts and binds water to plump cells |
Seals in water, softens, and protects |
|
Ingredients |
HA, glycerin, aloe vera |
Ceramides, squalane, petrolatum, beeswax, fatty acids |
|
Product Examples |
Serums, essences, toners |
Creams, oils, balms, emulsion serums |
While internal hydration supports overall wellness, topical products are key for surface-level results.
For Hydration:
The most fundamental way to hydrate your skin from the inside is by drinking plenty of water, supplement with electrolytes if necessary. Proper hydration is essential for every cell and organ in your body, including your skin.
For Moisture: Your body uses the fats you eat to produce the lipids (oils) that form your skin's protective barrier. Therefore, it's crucial to eat healthy fats.
Good Fat Examples: Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids found in oily fish (salmon, mackerel), nuts (walnuts), seeds (chia, flax), and avocados.
These are the building blocks of a resilient skin barrier.
By nurturing your skin from the inside out and the outside in, you’re not just treating symptoms and signs of dry / dehydrated skin - you’re building a foundation for truly healthy, strong skin.
When you're shopping for skincare, products are generally formulated in one of three ways to deliver hydration and moisture.
Understanding these categories will help you choose exactly what your skin needs.
These products are all about pure hydration.
They're typically lightweight, watery, or gel-like in texture and are designed to draw water into the skin.
They contain humectants - ingredients that act like magnets, pulling water from the atmosphere and deeper skin layers to plump up the skin's surface.
A product in this category provides hydration but offers very little to no moisture (oil) to lock it in.
Examples: Hyaluronic acid serums, glycerin-based toners, and simple hydrating essences.
Best for: All skin types, particularly those with dehydrated skin who need a pure dose of water before applying a moisturiser.
They are also perfect for oily or blemish-prone skin that needs hydration without the added weight of oils.
* Caveat: You could for example get a water-based Peptide serum that uses only water-based / water-soluble peptides and other water-based ingredients, but for the purpose of this guide we're focussing on Hydration products.
This is the most common and versatile category of serums and moisturisers.
These products are known as emulsions, which are mixtures of water and oil that are stabilised to blend together smoothly.
They are formulated to provide a balanced combination of both hydration and moisture.
They contain humectants to attract water, emollients to soften the skin, and occlusives to form a protective barrier.
Examples: Lotions, creams, and thicker emulsion serums.
Best for: Most skin types, as they offer a balanced approach.
They are particularly beneficial for normal, combination, and slightly dry skin, often providing both the water and the oil needed for a healthy barrier in one product.
Caveat: There are endless combinations of emulsions possible, for example many Retinoid serums and Vitamin C serums that are not particularly focussed on moisture in the skin are available as emulsion serums and creams.
They therefore contain by default water and oil-based ingredients that could also be beneficial for the skin in terms of hydration and moisture even though that may not be the main focus of the product.
These products are focused purely on moisture and barrier support.
They contain no water-based ingredients, only oils, butters, waxes, and other lipid-rich compounds.
They work by creating a protective, occlusive layer on the skin's surface, which prevents water from evaporating and helps to repair the skin's barrier.
They do not add hydration (water) on their own but are excellent at trapping any water already present in your skin or from previously applied products.
Examples: Facial oils, oil-based cleansing balms, and rich, anhydrous (water-free) balms.
Best for: Individuals with dry skin or those with a compromised skin barrier. They can also be used as a final step in a routine to seal in all the previous hydrating products.
* Oily skin types should be cautious with these and choose non-comedogenic oils to avoid clogging pores.
When it comes to selecting a moisturiser, especially for skin over 35, it's more than just a cream, it's a critical component of your skincare strategy.
We believe a good moisturiser should do more than just hydrate and moisturise - my belief is that a moisturiser should ideally mimic the skin's natural barrier, help prevent moisture loss, and actively address the signs of ageing, such as collagen and elasticity loss.
While some experts argue that a moisturiser is 'simply a moisturiser,' and that it doesn't really matter what kind of active ingredients it contains, I disagree.
For maturing skin in particular, it's arguably the most important product in a minimalist routine, second only to a cleanser and sunscreen.
If you have a simple cleanse - moisturise - sunscreen (am) routine you can still have great results and really support your skin on multiple levels with the right formulation.
So, what should you look for?
Think of your moisturiser as a complete formula designed to fortify and protect.
In my opinion a standout moisturiser should contain ingredients that mirror your skin's own composition.
1. Barrier-mimicking ingredients to replenish, strengthen and support
Look for products with a blend of Ceramides, Cholesterol, and Fatty acids.
These three components are the building blocks of your skin’s lipid barrier, working in synergy to maintain its strength and resilience.
2. Emollients to seal, soften and smooth
In addition to these barrier-mimicking ingredients, seek out emollient ingredientssuch as Shea butter or Squalane.
These rich, softening agents help to seal in hydration and prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), leaving your skin feeling smooth and supple.
3. Collagen / Elastin Synthesis and Support
To combat the natural decline in collagen as we age, a great moisturiser will also include pro-collagen peptides, ie. Matrixyl 3000; Matrixyl Synthe 6, Syn-coll and / or additional Collagen co-factors, ie. Copper peptides
These are small amino acid chains that may help signal your skin to produce more collagen, based on emerging studies, helping to restore firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines.
Texture
The ideal texture is subjective and depends on your individual needs, which can change with the weather, exposure to different environments, or hormonal shifts.
For example, a richer moisturiser may be needed in colder months.
To boost the richness of any moisturiser, you can simply mix in a few drops of a facial oil like our Ané Glow in a Bottle Face Oil upon application.
By choosing a moisturiser with these key inclusions for both day and night, you can provide your skin with the comprehensive care it needs to stay healthy, radiant, and youthful.
Sample INCI List for a Barrier-Mimicking, Collagen-supporting Moisturiser:
Aqua (Water)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Emollient, derived from coconut oil, helps to soften the skin)
Glycerin (Humectant, attracts water)
Squalane (Emollient and moisturiser, a fantastic ingredient that mimics the skin's natural sebum)
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Shea Butter) (Emollient, helps to seal in moisture)
Cetearyl Alcohol (Fatty alcohol, used as an emulsifier and stabiliser)
Cholesterol (Skin-identical ingredient, key component of the skin barrier)
Ceramide NP (A type of Ceramide, a core component of the skin barrier)
Ceramide AP (Another type of Ceramide, helps to maintain the skin’s integrity)
Ceramide EOP (Third type of Ceramide, essential for barrier function)
Phytosphingosine (A lipid precursor to ceramides)
Glycine Soja Oil (Soybean Oil) (Source of fatty acids)
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (A type of pro-collagen peptide, helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles)
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) (Antioxidant, protects against free radical damage)
Sodium Hyaluronate (Salt form of Hyaluronic Acid, a powerful hydrator)
Xanthan Gum (Natural thickener, improves product texture)
Phenoxyethanol (Preservative)
A healthy NMF is essential for maintaining the skin's barrier, ensuring it remains elastic, resilient, and protected from the outside world.
When choosing a product specifically for hydration, you're looking to quench your skin's thirst and plump it with water-attracting ingredients.
These products are designed to deliver a concentrated dose of moisture-binding humectants deep into the skin's layers.
For any skin type, especially those over 35 where natural hydration levels decline, a good hydrating serum, mist, or essence becomes a cornerstone of a healthy routine.
Your goal is to find a product that replenishes and supports your skin's Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF).
The NMF is a group of water-soluble compounds, including amino acids, urea, and electrolytes, that are naturally present in your skin's outermost layer.
They work like tiny sponges, drawing water from the deeper dermis into the stratum corneum to keep it hydrated and flexible.
A standout hydrating product will be rich in humectants.
These are the key ingredients that act as magnets for water, pulling it into the epidermis from both the atmosphere and the lower layers of your skin.Look for a formula that includes a blend of these hydrating heroes:
They should always be followed by a moisturiser or facial oil to seal in all that glorious hydration.
Sample INCI List for a Water-based Hydrating Serum:
Your Beauty by Ané Skincare Routine: The Hydrate & Moisturise Method
So, how do you put this into practice? It's all about layering intelligently:
Cleanse: Start with a gentle cleanser to prepare your skin.
Hydrate: Apply your hydrating product(s) first, usually on damp skin to help them draw in water even better.
Moisturise: Lock in all that glorious hydration with a rich moisturiser and/or facial oil.
Protect: Always finish with SPF in the morning, this is a non-negotiable for skin protection.
You're giving it the water it needs to be plump and happy, and then sealing that in with a strong, healthy barrier.
Yes, absolutely. Dehydration is about water loss, not oil production. Oily skin can still lack water, leading to tightness or overcompensation with more oil.
What's the best order for hydration and moisture in my routine?
Always hydrate first (e.g., serums) on damp skin, then moisturise to seal it in. This maximises absorption and prevents evaporation.
Do I need both if my skin is normal?
Yes, for optimal balance. Even normal skin benefits from targeted hydration and moisture, especially after 35 when natural reserves decline.
How does ageing affect this?
Post-35, skin loses HA and ceramides, increasing dryness and TEWL. Focus on multi-weight HA for hydration and ceramides for moisture to combat fine lines and barrier weakness.
Can drinking water replace topical hydration?
No - while internal hydration supports overall health, topical products directly target the skin's surface for visible results.
What is NMF and why does it decline with age?
NMF is a built-in hydration system consisting of amino acids, urea, and electrolytes in the skin's top layer. It declines with age due to hormonal changes and environmental factors, leading to increased dryness and TEWL.
What are pro-collagen peptides in moisturisers?
Pro-collagen peptides are amino acid chains that may help signal collagen production, potentially restoring firmness and reducing fine lines in mature skin.
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