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Choosing the right sunscreen can feel like cracking a secret code.
With so many terms like SPF, UVA, PA++++, and "broad-spectrum" floating around, it's easy to feel a bit confused when you're browsing online and stand in front of shelves packed full of sunscreens.
But here's the truth: understanding your sunscreen label is one of the most important and powerful steps you can take for your skin's health and appearance - not just now, but for decades to come.
You might be like me, having spent years soaking up the sun without a second thought. Not really paying much attention to sunscreen and much more attention to your tan (especially if you were a 70's baby like me, or older).
Growing up in the glorious South African sun, sunscreen was an afterthought.
The only time the SPF 4 made an appearance was the two weeks a year we went on a beach holiday. In our defence, sunscreens those years were not exactly pleasant to use -especially facial sunscreens. For me it's only really the last 5-6 years that these sunscreens have really improved texture wise and have become an actual pleasure to use as opposed to leaving a gloopy mess on your face with your makeup sliding off or pilling.
I digress. Years ago a low-SPF lotion slapped on at the beach was more about avoiding a painful burn than preserving long-term skin health.
Fast forward to my early fourties, and suddenly, the silent, cumulative sun damage of decades decided to show up all at once: stubborn sunspots, etched little lines and wrinkles, and feeling that my skin's lost its youthful bounce.
Cumulative sun damage over the years is of course not the only culprit - but when you pair that with hormonal shifts and perhaps longer term low level inflammation you have some of the key factors of accelerated ageing all together in one go.
So much of the blemishes, discolouration, rougher texture and volume loss in our faces that so many of us on our fourties, fifties and beyond are now trying to correct can be tracked back to years and decades of no, or very little of the right sun protection.
But this personal journey ignited my passion for sun protection.
While I pour my heart into creating effective skincare, I truly believe that investing in a high-quality sunscreen is the single most impactful anti-ageing tool you have.
It protects the investment you make in all your other wonderful skincare products.
Saying that, I know it's a minefield. Choosing the right skincare is one thing - and now we add another whole product category to the mix.
I hope this guide will take some of the guesswork out of it for you and give you some really practical pointers to look out for.
It's designed to help you pick a product that truly protects your skin from ageing, pigmentation, and future damage, and even helps to mitigate existing sun damage built up over time.
When you see "Broad Spectrum" on a sunscreen label, it means the product protects against both UVA and UVB rays.
Why it matters:
UVB rays are the primary cause of sunburn and directly contribute to skin cancer.
UVA rays penetrate deeper into your skin, silently causing premature ageing (think wrinkles, fine lines, sagging), hyperpigmentation (sunspots, melasma), and still contribute to skin cancer. They're present year-round, even on cloudy days, and can penetrate glass.
The takeaway: Never choose a sunscreen that isn't labelled "Broad Spectrum." It's your foundational defence.
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor and specifically measures a sunscreen's ability to protect against UVB rays.
What the numbers mean:
SPF 15 blocks approximately 93% of UVB rays.
SPF 30 blocks approximately 97% of UVB rays.
SPF 50 blocks approximately 98% of UVB rays.
SPF 100 blocks approximately 99% of UVB rays.
The nuance: Notice the diminishing returns. The difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 is only about 1% more UVB blocked. However, SPF 50 is ideal for daily use and strong sun exposure, offering a higher safety margin if you don't apply quite enough.
The takeaway: Aim for SPF 30 or higher, ideally SPF 50+, for robust daily UVB protection.
The PA rating system (PA+, PA++, PA+++, PA++++) is an Asian standard (originating in Japan that specifically measures a sunscreen's level of UVA protection.
What the pluses indicate: More pluses mean higher UVA protection.
PA+: Low UVA protection
PA++: Moderate UVA protection
PA+++: High UVA protection
PA++++: Extremely high UVA protection
Why it's crucial: For effective anti-ageing and pigment control, particularly for concerns like melasma or sunspots, PA++++ is what you truly want. It indicates superior defence against the deep-penetrating UVA rays that cause collagen breakdown and pigmentation.
The takeaway: Prioritise PA++++ for optimal UVA protection against ageing and hyperpigmentation.
Often found on sunscreens primarily marketed in Europe (including the UK), the UVA symbol (letters "UVA" inside a circle) is a legally regulated standard.
What it means: This symbol guarantees that the sunscreen's UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is at least 1/3 of its stated SPF value. For instance, an SPF 30 with this symbol will have a UVA-PF of at least 10.
The takeaway: This symbol provides strong assurance of meaningful UVA protection, even if a PA rating isn't present.
This signifies a more sophisticated level of UVA protection. The UVA spectrum is divided into UVA1 and UVA2, with UVA1 (often called "Long UVA") being the longest and most deeply penetrating rays, causing significant long-term damage.
Why it's a "bonus": When a sunscreen specifically states "Long UVA" or a "Critical Wavelength ≥370 nm," it means it's formulated to offer enhanced defence across the entire UVA spectrum, with a particular focus on these deeper, more damaging rays.
The takeaway: These claims indicate a truly advanced, comprehensive UVA shield, going beyond standard broad-spectrum protection.
Modern science shows that not just UV, but also High-Energy Visible Light (HE-VL), including blue light, and Infrared-A (IR-A) radiation can harm your skin.
HE-VL / Blue Light: Sun is the biggest source of blue light, which can trigger hyperpigmentation (especially melasma) and oxidative stress. Protection against this is vital if pigmentation is a concern or if you spend a lot of time near windows or screens.
IR-A Radiation: This type of heat radiation can reach deep into the skin, contributing to oxidative stress and collagen degradation.
The takeaway: Look for sunscreens that explicitly state protection against HE-VL/Blue Light and IR-A for the most holistic defence against environmental aggressors.
This indicates that the sunscreen maintains its SPF after a certain period of swimming or sweating.
What the label specifies: You'll typically see "Water Resistant (40 minutes)" or "Very Water Resistant (80 minutes)."
The takeaway: Choose this if you're exercising, swimming, or in a humid climate. Remember, "water resistant" doesn't mean "waterproof" – reapplication after these activities is still crucial.
Sunscreen filters do an amazing job, but no sunscreen blocks 100% of rays. Plus, visible light and IR-A can still generate harmful free radicals in your skin, leading to damage.
Why it matters: Antioxidants act as your skin's second line of defence, neutralising these free radicals before they can harm your cells, collagen, and elastin. They also boost the overall effectiveness of your sunscreen.
What to look for: Ingredients like Fernblock® complex (found in Heliocare products), Patented EnviroScreen® Technology (found in Colorescience products), Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, or Green Tea Extract.
The takeaway: Antioxidant-rich sunscreens provide a more comprehensive and robust shield against sun damage.
Many sunscreens now come infused with additional skincare benefits, turning your SPF into a true multi-tasker.
Examples: Look for ingredients that offer:
Skin and barrier support: Hyaluronic acid for hydration, peptides for firmness.
Anti-redness: Soothing ingredients for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.
Pigmentation-fighting: Niacinamide or Ellagic Acid to help fade dark spots.
The takeaway: While not a strict "must-have" for pure sun protection, these added benefits can beautifully complement your existing skincare routine and address specific concerns.
You could have the most scientifically advanced sunscreen in the world, but if you hate how it feels or looks on your skin, you simply won't use it consistently. And consistency is the absolute key to effective sun protection.
Find your preference:
Creams: Often hydrating, good for drier skin.
Fluids/Gels: Lightweight, often preferred for oily or combination skin.
Sprays: Convenient for body application.
Tinted: Offers light coverage and helps to offset any white cast.
The takeaway: Experiment to find a formula (cream, fluid, spray, tinted, mineral, chemical, or hybrid) that you genuinely enjoy using every single day. This is the ultimate "deal-breaker" for long-term adherence.
After years of learning (and working to reverse previous sun damage!), I'm incredibly particular about my sunscreens.
Here are the products I personally use and wholeheartedly recommend, categorised by their primary benefits:
Heliocare's range stands out for its incorporation of Fernblock® technology and targeted solutions, offering both mineral and hybrid options.
Heliocare Age Active Fluid SPF 50+: A fantastic hybrid option for those concerned with anti-ageing. It's hydrating, has a subtle tint, and helps to plump the skin while providing excellent broad-spectrum SPF 50 and PA++++ protection with Fernblock®.
Heliocare 360º MD A-R Emulsion SPF50+: An excellent mineral sunscreen specifically formulated for sensitive skin prone to redness or rosacea. It has an anti-redness system and a subtle unifying tint, offering broad-spectrum SPF 50 and PA++++ protection with Fernblock®.
Heliocare 360° Mineral Fluid SPF 50 Broad Spectrum PA+++ HE-VL/IR-A (Λc≥370 nm): Another fantastic mineral option, especially for sensitive skin. This fluid offers exceptional broad-spectrum protection, including those elusive long UVA rays, plus defence against HE-VL and IR-A, all in a gentle, non-whitening formula.
Tinted sunscreens are brilliant for combining sun protection with a touch of coverage, often ideal for daily wear.
Colorescience Total Protection Face Shield Flex SPF 50: This is my absolute go-to! It's a 100% mineral SPF 50 that uses innovative, tone-adapting pigments to deliver beautiful, buildable coverage with a natural finish. Crucially, its Patented EnviroScreen® Technology offers defence against UVA/UVB, pollution, blue light (thanks to its iron oxides), and infrared radiation. It’s perfect if you want to blur imperfections, even out skin tone, and get comprehensive protection, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to melasma.
ISDIN Fotoprotector FusionWater MAGIC SPF 50 UVA PA++++ HE-VL: A true powerhouse for daily use. This chemical sunscreen is incredibly lightweight, absorbs beautifully, and provides a comprehensive shield against all light damage (UVA, UVB, HE-VL) with its PA++++ rating. It's fantastic under makeup.
Caudalie Sunscreen Milky Sun Spray SPF50: For the body, I love something easy to apply and luxurious. This chemical spray offers high SPF protection in a delightful, non-greasy formula, making reapplication a breeze.
Remember, consistency is key!
Investing a little less on another expensive serum and prioritising a high-quality sunscreen that ticks these boxes is truly the best gift you can give your skin.
Your future self will thank you for making it a non-negotiable part of your daily routine.
It's designed to help you pick a product that truly protects your skin from ageing, pigmentation, future damage and even to help reverse existing sun damage built up over time.
"Broad Spectrum" (Essential): Confirms protection against both UVA and UVB rays.
SPF 30 or Higher (Aim for 50+): Provides robust UVB (sunburn) protection. SPF 50 is ideal for daily use and strong sun, offering about 98% UVB blockage.
PA++++ (Highly Recommended): Guarantees extremely high UVA protection, vital for anti-ageing and pigment control. If not PA++++, look for PA+++.
UVA (Circle Symbol) (Strong Indicator): Confirms the product meets strict European UVA protection standards.
"Long UVA" or "Critical Wavelength ≥370 nm" (Advanced Benefit/Optional): Indicates superior protection against the deepest, most damaging UVA rays.
HE-VL / Blue Light Protection (Advanced Benefit/Optional): A significant advantage, especially if you're concerned about hyperpigmentation or spend time near screens/windows. Consider IR-A protection too for a holistic shield.
Water Resistant (If Applicable/optional): Choose this if you'll be swimming or sweating heavily, noting the duration (e.g., 40 or 80 minutes).
Antioxidant Support (e.g., Fernblock® complex found in Heliocare products, Patented EnviroScreen® Technology found in Colorescience products, Niacinamide, Vitamin C/E) etc: Boosts protection against free radicals.
Skincare Ingredient Properties (Optional but a bonus!): Look for anti-aging, anti-redness, or pigmentation-fighting ingredients if they match your skin concerns.
Texture & Finish (Personal Preference): Find a formula (cream, fluid, spray, tinted) that you genuinely enjoy using every single day, as consistency is king - in use and in re-application.
If there’s one thing I wish I’d done more of in my twenties, it's investing in a good antioxidant serum and used it consistently. That would've given me decades of additional protection against free radical damage, but now that I understand the importance of it I don't skip a day.
The world of skincare can be overwhelming, but I hope this Antioxidants in Skincare guide will give you more clarity about the importance of this key ingredient family and more confidence to choose your next antioxidant product.
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